![]() ![]() It is more just for me to work on the few images I've captured that I really like and want to print and hang on my wall (for clarity's sake, that has been maybe 2-3 images in the past four years (travel and landscape images)). I'm not sending images to clients who will give feedback about further changes to images. Maybe I'm overthinking it? Maybe non-destructive raw processing doesn't really matter for me. I could see my workflow as: do raw processing, tone, and color adjustments in RAW Power, then only if needed, send the image to Affinity for maybe some local brightness or highlight recovery, or possibly sky replacement. I'm perfectly fine with using Apple Photos for image management and don't need a DAM like in Lightroom. ![]() adjustments or just white balance, highlights, shadows, and other tone adjustments?įor raw development I think I like RAW Power the best. Does anybody do raw development in a different app, then send it to Affinity for further work? If so, how far do you take raw development before sending it to Affinity? Do you do all your colors, curves, etc. I’ve covered it extensively in the past, including a previous version of this article.However, over the past two years since the last time I updated this, there have been a few changes to the landscape, and so it’s time to write an updated version. Affinity Photo is far from useless, it is simply not the complete picture - it is one piece of the workflow. As I understand it, Affinity Photo's raw development is destructive. The topic of how best to process Fuji raw files has been a long-running topic on this website. So the first step is generating a master-flat frame.I plan to use an iPad Pro for working on my images. It cannot be done as one streamlined process like Batch Preprocessing in PixInsight. In the current version of Starry Sky Stacker (1.1.3), if I want to make use of flat frames, I have first to create a master-flat frame, and then use it with lights and darks to produce a final frame. Those TIFFs I need for the next step: Stacking with Starry Sky Stacker Then, I export all the frames as 16-bit TIFF files to retain as much data from RAW as possible. I employ those corrections to one frame and then copy and paste those settings to every other light, dark, and flat frame.
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